This classic Sichuan staple has gone through many transformations, including the changing of its politically incorrect name (Kung Pao) to something a little more mainstream (Gong Bao Ji Ding) and the alteration of ingredients (Sichuan peppercorns are a traditional ingredient, but rarely used in Western recipes, due to the ban that only ended in 2005). But the basic dish, with its complex flavors and burst of heat, is at its core a party in your mouth that deserved to outlast all the changes.