When I was living in Naples, Italy, I was fond of the daily loaf of pane (bread), which is purchased fresh from the wood-fired bakery every morning and is a centerpiece on the table for lunch and dinner. Since 2007, I've been trying to recreate the same bread at home. I started with commercial yeast recipes, eventually settling on Peter Reinhart's pain l'ancienne recipe. However, something was still missing. I've always been skeptical and somewhat fearful of the required maintenance of sourdough baking. Eventually, a friend convinced me to try the "criscito", or wild yeast leavening method. And I haven't looked back.