This is a really good way to use Jerusalem artichokes without all the fuss of having to peel them first. Many restaurants peel them and then put them into acidulated water to stop them going brown, but this just results in lemon-flavoured artichokes and a horrible, sour purée when they’re cooked. It’s no good having a beautiful white colour to the purée but no taste. With this recipe, the purée will be slightly off-white but it will have a lovely, intense flavour. When you stir it into the risotto, it adds a real earthiness. I offset the richness of the risotto and scallops with a drizzle of sweet sherry caramel