The most common dessert on the range was dried fruit, usually peaches, apples, or apricots, often stewed up with plenty of sugar. “Cookie” might also add sugar to biscuit dough and fry it, as a rudimentary but tolerable doughnut. Enterprising cooks, who were paid more than even the top riders and cowhands, created fried fruit pies as a combination of the two desserts. This recipe takes a few liberties with the original dish, adding jam for extra fruit taste and sweetness, and lightening up the lard pastry. For the pastry, butter tasted the best, and lard makes it flake. You can substitute vegetable shortening for some of the lard, as done here, without losing the lightness. If you want the ultimate in flakiness, use a soft wheat flour. The lower gluten content does the trick.