When the weather is brisk I love a bowl of onion soup topped with a toasted crouton and melted cheese. The usual cheese is a Swiss one like Emmenthal or Gruyère. But the secret to this preparation is to use Comté, a French cheese. You may have to hunt around to find it and it's more expensive than the Swiss cheeses, but it has a wonderful taste and a delightfully stringy texture when melted. I owe this discovery to Toronto Star food writer Amy Pataki. I like to eat this dish right away, so instead of taking the time to make the onion soup from scratch, I use a canned variety.