Hot Cross Buns - Updated Version

My mom’s basic recipe (with potato in the dough to make it more tender) with some tweaks to the flavors from Stella Parks at Serious Eats, and some changes to the baking approach from Alton Brown’s tips on baking bread. The result is a very light, moist bun, much less dense than I at least have been able to make before. The prep time does include rising time, including an 8-12 hour stint in the refrigerator overnight to develop the sponge, so don't be put off by that.

• Ready In: 15 hrs 20 mins
• Serves: 32
• Yields: 32 buns

Ingredients

• 4 1⁄2 teaspoons  yeast (2 packages)
• 1⁄2 cup water
• 1⁄2 cup milk
• 3⁄4 cup mashed potatoes (can also use 3/4 cup boiling water with 1/4 cup dehydrated riced potatoes)
• 1⁄2 cup sugar
• 5  cups all-purpose flour, divided
• 1 1⁄4 teaspoons salt
• 1⁄2 cup butter
• 2  eggs
• 2  teaspoons cinnamon
• 1  teaspoon nutmeg
• 1  teaspoon allspice
• 1  teaspoon clove
• 1⁄2 teaspoon  coriander
• 1  teaspoon  dried orange peel
• 1  vanilla beans, seeds scraped and pod discarded or 1  teaspoon vanilla extract
• 3⁄4 cup  dried apricot, cut into a fine dice (or other light dried fruit such as citron)
• 3⁄4 cup dried cranberries, cut into a fine dice (or other dark dried fruit such as cherries or raisins)
• 1  egg yolk
• 1  tablespoon water
• 1  cup powdered sugar
• 1  tablespoon milk
• 1⁄2 teaspoon vanilla

Directions

1. Combine one package of yeast, water, and milk; stir well.
2. Mix with potatoes, sugar, and 1 cup of the flour. Whisk until combined and refrigerate for 8-12 hours.
3. Remove the sponge from the refrigerator, and add remaining yeast, salt, butter, eggs, spices and orange peel. Beat in flour by cups until combined.
4. Knead by hand or with a dough hook for 5-10 minutes, until elastic. Add the dried chopped fruit and knead until just combined.
5. Place in a warm, humid area and allow to rise 1-2 hours until doubled in volume. (If the kitchen is cold, put the dough in the oven (NOT heated), with a pan of water just off the boil on the rack beneath. The steam will prevent a skin from forming, and the hot water will give enough heat to let the dough rise without cooking it (and killing the yeast).
6. Fold out gently and separate into 32 pieces of dough. A bench scraper works very well here - cut the main ball in half, then quarter each half, then quarter each quarter. This means you halve the dough 5 times in total, but it’s easier for me to track as above.
7. Fold the corners in to make balls. Pull the dough tight at the bottom to smooth the balls out. 2 halfsheets will hold the entire batch with room to rise.
8. Bench proof for 40 minutes.
9. Cut a cross onto the top of each ball (a slicing knife or razor blade works best to make the cross without pulling the dough together as with a scissors). Brush with egg yolk and water.
10. Bake 20 minutes at 375, or until an instant read thermometer reads 205-210.
11. Allow the buns to rest for at least 30 minutes.
12. While the buns are resting, combine milk, sugar, and vanilla to make icing.
13. When cool, drizzle icing on each bun, allowing it to collect in the cross.