Tart little pickles called cornichons, from the French word for gherkins, flavor this updated version of an old-fashioned favorite. The dressing can be made up to two days ahead and stored, refrigerated, in an airtight container.
Each summer, many lobsters tough shells are replaced by thin ones. These lobsters, called shedders, are a delight to eat it takes no effort to get at the tail and claw meat. Still, i t is smart to keep a pair of crackers at hand, just in case. Boiling lobsters in court-bouillon, a staple for poaching seafood, makes them quite flavorful in the absence of seawater.
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