In a small saute pan over low heat, toast the cumin, fennel seed, coriander seed and chilies, then grind them in a spice (or coffee) grinder.
In a large bowl, combine the kecap manis, fish sauce, soy sauce, sugar and food coloring, if using. Add the ground spices, ginger and garlic. Stir until the sugar has dissolved.
Put the chicken wings in a container large enough to hold the wings and sauce. Pour the sauce over the wings and toss to coat. Place a piece of parchment paper over the wings, then top with a plate to keep them submerged. Refrigerate for 24 to 48 hours, stirring occasionally.
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Place a wire rack on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Lay the wings, skin side down, on the rack. Note: The marinade ingredients may be salty enough, but I still lightly season with salt prior to baking. Reserve the marinade. Cook for 20 to 25 minutes.
Bring the marinade to a boil in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Lower the heat and simmer until it reduces by about half into a thick glaze. Strain through a fine sieve into a large bowl. Add half of the aromatics in the sieve back into the glaze and stir. Toss the cooked wings in the glaze.