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Cook7 hrs 45 mins
Entered for safe-keeping, be fore-warned that this classic French brown sauce stock needs a 12-quart pot such as used in an haute cuisine kitchen (the Le Creuset 13 1/2-quart Goose pot would be perfect) to generate 2 quarts of thickened stock. From Raymond Sokolov's "The Saucier's Apprentice". I added a 1-cup "Enhanced Store-Bought Stock" alternative for a smaller batch using the American Test Kitchen technique in Spring Vegetable Pasta-America's Test Kitchen #477839, which makes store-bought stock richer.
THE REAL DEAL - 2 QUARTS FREEZABLE
- 18 lbs veal bones, cut into 3-inch sections
- 2 lbs carrots, peeled and sliced in rounds
- 1 lb onion, peeled and sliced
- 16 garlic cloves, peeled
- 1⁄2 cup tomato paste
- 8 bay leaves
- 16 parsley stems
- 8 sprigs fresh thyme or 2 teaspoons dried thyme
- 3 cups water (1 cup at a time to form brown glaze base)
- 10 quarts cold water
- 2 lbs cremini mushrooms, wiped clean and roughly chopped or 2 lbs champignon mushrooms, de paris wiped clean and roughly chopped or 2 lbs button mushrooms, wiped clean and roughly chopped
- 1 1⁄2 teaspoons fresh chervil or 1⁄2 teaspoon dried chervil
- 1 1⁄2 teaspoons fresh tarragon or 1⁄2 teaspoon dried tarragon
- 1 cup madeira wine
- 2 tablespoons arrowroot
- 2 teaspoons arrowroot
ENHANCED STORE-BOUGHT STOCK - 1 CUP
- 1 cup veal stock
- 1⁄4 lb cremini mushrooms, wiped clean and roughly chopped or 1⁄4 lb champignon mushrooms, de paris wiped clean and roughly chopped or 1⁄4 lb button mushroom, wiped clean and roughly chopped
- 1⁄4 teaspoon fresh chervil or 1⁄8 teaspoon dried chervil
- 1⁄4 teaspoon fresh tarragon or 1⁄8 teaspoon dried tarragon
- 2 tablespoons madeira wine
- 1 teaspoon arrowroot
- REAL DEAL:.
- (Optional): Splinter bones with a cleaver.
- Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
- Brown the bones in batches in a roasting pan in the oven, turning once. Do not use more than 1 rack in the oven at a time.
- While the bones are coloring to a caramel shade, set your large stock pot over as many burners as it will straddle. Cover the bottom of the empty pot with carrots, onions, garlic, tomato paste, bay leaves, parsley stems, and thyme.
- Then add the browned bones, batch by batch, until they are all in the pot. Cover pot, without adding water, and apply high heat for 10 minutes to make the vegetables and bones sweat, or release their juices.
- Pour 1 cup of water into the pot. Cook over high heat until the liquid has reduced to a brown glaze at the bottom. This will take a few minutes, but this is the secret to a knock-out sauce. Repeat this twice more. With a wooden spoon, make a well into the vegetables to check the glaze.
- Add 10 quarts of cold water and bring to a full boil. Skim carefully, reduce heat and simmer, uncovered for 6 hours. You should end up with 8 quarts.
- Remove all solid ingredients with a skimmer and discard. Strain stock through a chinois into a clean pot or pots, cool to room temperature, uncovered, and refrigerate.
- When the layer of fat has solidified at the surface, remove the layer of fat.
- -- THIS FAT-FREE STOCK CAN BE KEPT IN THE REFRIGERATOR SO LONG AS IT IS REBOILED EVERY 2-3 DAYS. (Hope you have a spare refrigerator :D) --.
- To complete the jus de veau, add mushrooms, chervil, and tarragon leaves to the strained, fat-free stock and bring to a boil. During this round, you will reduce the stock from 8 quarts to 2 quarts of liquid.
- When it looks as if there is about 5 quarts left, remove the mushrooms with a skimmer. Squeeze the mushrooms to make them release the liquid they have absorbed. Now finish the reduction to 2 quarts of liquid.
- Strain through a chinois lined with muslin or a clean dish towel into 1- or 2-cup freezer containers, cool, uncovered, and remove fat once more after refrigeration, if necessary. Freeze.
- BEFORE USING:.
- Defrost the required amount of jus. Then in a proportion of 2 tablespoons Madeira and 1 teaspoon arrowroot per cup of jus, dissolve arrowroot in Madeira and stir the mixture into the jus. Boil for 1 minute.
- ENHANCED STORE-BOUGHT STOCK:.
- Pour veal stock, mushrooms, chervil and tarragon into a saucepan.
- Bring to a simmer over high heat, then reduce to medium-low and gently simmer for 8-10 minutes.
- Remove mushrooms and squeeze their liquid into pan. Discard mushrooms. Strain broth into bain marie or double-boiler to keep warm until serving.
- BEFORE USING ENHANCED STORE-BOUGHT STOCK:.
- Dissolve arrowroot in Madeira and stir the mixture into the jus. Boil for 1 minute.