From the Inquirer Magazine of the Philadelphia Inquirer, August 1998. Unwaxed lemons would be ideal for this if you can find them.
- Cut lemons in half lengthwise and slice thinly, as if for garnish.
- Mash them with the sugar and salt in a large, deep bowl or crock with an old-fashioned potato masher or heavy wooden spoon until the slices give up their juice, the sugar is dissolved and the juice is syrupy, about 5 minutes.
- Pour about half the lemon slices into a sieve over a bowl or pot, pressing the solids to release as much liquid as possible.
- Discard the solids and transfer the liquid to a serving pitcher.
- Repeat the process with the remaining lemons.
- Stir in the water until blended.
- Add ice cubes or chill, stirring just before serving over ice.